F1 CANTILEVER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND TIPS:
This is what the unit looks like un-assembled and assembled
you will need a small phillips screwdriver, CA, soldering gun and a dremel tool with cartridge roll.
First remove shock mount and whatever DDS you already have on the car leaving only the PC board on the chassis. Then take your dremel tool and grind off the center boss completely and grind down the bosses around 1.5mm or so ( just enough to clear the cantilever arm).
Notice how the wires are ran and soldered on, you can do it anyway you like but i found them much easier to deal with if you put them on the side, i have holes in the base that will allow you to screw the wires on like stock but its hard to get them to clear the body if you run them anywhere near the cantilever. BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL SOLDERING YOUR WIRES ON THE BOARD ESPECIALLY THAT TINY LITTLE CAPACITOR IN BETWEEN THE WIRE TABS. IF you look closely you will see that i soldered the wires near the rear of the tab to make sure that i am no where near that little bugger! and you must also extend the battery wire (short black one). this is done to allow the board to move forward.
The servo cover must also be modified to allow room for the wires to pass through. On the bottom side of the cover there are small strips that secure the servo motor and keep it from rotating, make sure that you dont remove them completely. and on the top side there are two small tabs that were made for the long AM board but also work for the 2.4 board now that it has moved forward, dont remove the either!
Before: front and backside
After: front and backside
Now you take your assembled unit and install on the chassis, its a pretty snug fit so you may have to further trim the bosses until it lays flat on the chassis.
next you can place the board in place ( i use a few drops of CA on the corners to keep it in place), screw the shock mount down. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SHOCK MOUNT HOLD DOWN SCREWS,if you tighten them to tight it will raise the back of the CDS (cantilever damping system) and cause interference with the body. It only needs to be tight enough to keep the shock mount from moving
Now take the m2 x 12mm screw and the plastic collar out of the bag. At this time put a small drop of CA in the threaded hole on the PN mount
This is what it should look like when complete, the collar goes on top of the cantilever arm and below the kyosho shock. Let the shock float if possible, so dont worry if there is a gap in between the screw and the shock. the CA is there to keep the screw from rocking even if you dont tighten it down all the way. Notice how the wires are ran
Body clearancing: it is a very close and tight fit, 75% of the time its the wires that are causing grief. you will have to do some minor clearancing under the body but nothing too dramatic, the CDS will not work with the ferrari body.
here is the same body i have been using all year and i only had to clear for the ICS plug and scrap the underside for the arms.
Here is a body that i cut all the way open so you can see where everything is and where you will need to clear.
Since the board has been moved forward you have to grind down the cockpit from the inside to clear the ICS plug and any extra wire that is in the way.
- I HAVE FOUND THAT IT WORKS BEST WITH NO FRICTION GREASE OR 5K GREASE
- I USE 15K GREASE ON THE SHOCK
- THE CDS SHOULD WORK WITH ANY MOTOR MOUNT BUT IT WAS DESIGNED AROUND THE PN MOUNT BECAUSE OF ITS POPULARITY.
- PLEASE BE CAREFUL SOLDERING AROUND THE PCB
- ALL PARTS ARE AVAILABLE SEPERATELY VIA EMAIL ORDERING
- DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ANY OF THE SCREWS THEY DONT NEED TO BE SUPER TIGHT AND YOU WILL ALSO RISK STRIPPING THE THREADS
- YOU MAY WANT TO TAKE SOME 800GRIT SANDPAPER AND SMOOTH THE WHITE STYRENE ARMS BEFORE INSTALLATION
- STYRENE IS REALLY SENSITIVE TO CHEMICALS, ONLY USE LIGHTER FLUID TO CLEAN
Thanx for your purchase!